Hands-on with the Czapek Antarctique Collection in 40.5mm – Passage de Drake, Revelation, Green Meteor

The Breakout Hit from the Rising Star of Independent Watchmaking

The Antarctique represents a significant milestone for the modern Czapek brand, marking the moment it truly found its footing and distinctive voice. Launched in 2020, five years after the brand's re-establishment in 2015, the Antarctique brought with it numerous firsts for Czapek: the first in-house movement, the first sporty and modern design, and the first product line to encompass multiple formats and complications. Most notably, it was Czapek’s first runaway hit, catapulting the brand to the forefront of independent and emerging watch brands.

From Cult Following to Crowd Favorite

Prior to the Antarctique, Czapek had already garnered a devoted following among independent watch collectors and aficionados. Their debut watch, the Quai de Bergues, won the prestigious GPHG award in 2016, establishing the brand’s reputation for exceptional craftsmanship and design. However, it was the Antarctique that truly propelled Czapek into the limelight.

For those interested in the detailed history of Czapek and insights into the modern brand, we recommend listening to our podcast with Xavier de Roquemarel, the CEO of Czapek. You can find our podcast, Openwork, on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, YouTube, or wherever you get your podcasts.

The 40.5mm Antarctique: A Detailed Examination

Now, let’s take an in-depth look at the 40.5mm, time-only Antarctique, the cornerstone of the collection. While the Antarctique line has expanded to include various case sizes, materials, and complications, our focus here is on the 40mm stainless steel references, which remain the heart and soul of the collection.

• Diameter: 40.5mm
• Thickness: 10.6mm
• Lug-to-Lug: 45mm

In any stainless steel sports watch, the bracelet is as crucial as the case. The Antarctique's bracelet features screw-through links and a proprietary micro-adjustment system, ensuring both durability and comfort.

At the core of the time-only Antarctique is Czapek's SXH05 microrotor movement, designed by Czapek and produced exclusively for them by Chronode. The movement's architecture is a modern homage to the finger bridges seen in early Czapek pocket watches. It boasts meticulous finishing with sandblasted black bridges, beveled edges, straight-grained sides, and six hand-chamfered inward angles.

When compared to other high-end sports watches from brands like Audemars Piguet, Patek Philippe, and Vacheron Constantin, the SXH05 caliber stands out for its intriguing design, engineering, and finishing. The view through the case back is as captivating as the watch’s front, offering a glimpse into the intricate craftsmanship within.

Dial Configurations

The 40mm Antarctique offers a variety of dial configurations, ranging from galvanic "stairway to eternity" dials in several colors to more exotic options like meteorite or fully open-worked dials. Both the dials and bracelets can be customized, with options for indices, seconds hand finishing, and bracelet finishes, demonstrating Czapek’s commitment to delivering personalized experiences for their customers.

Continuous Improvement: A Hallmark of Czapek

Czapek’s dedication to improvement is evident in the continuous enhancements made to the Antarctique over the years. For instance, they upgraded the rotor from 18-carat gold to platinum, increasing its winding power by 25%, and enhanced the rotor’s ball bearings for better efficiency. The bracelet has also seen upgrades, including micro-adjustments and improved finishing, thanks to a new production partner. This focus on customer feedback and continuous improvement is rare in an industry often resistant to change, making Czapek a standout brand for enthusiasts.

Imitated, Yet Peerless

The Antarctique’s design stands out as a unique expression of Czapek’s identity, avoiding the common pitfall of imitating other designs in the stainless steel sports watch category. This originality has even led to the Antarctique being copied by others, a testament to its singular appeal and success. And while its looks may be imitated, the total package is peerless – blending not just design but watchmaking at the highest level and a commitment to continuous improvement.

The Czapek Antarctique collection is available at collectivehorology.com. As always, feel free to get in touch with your thoughts and questions. And thank you for supporting independent watchmaking.