Highlights from WatchTime New York 2026
Our Favorites from the Show
By Blake Buettner
New York Watch Week continued its expansion this year with another eventful slate of events, bringing together enthusiasts from around the world in celebration of watchmaking. At the core of the week sits WatchTime, a three-day event held in New York’s Gotham Hall showcasing independent watchmakers from the likes of Ming, Fears, and Ressence alongside a small handful of legacy Swiss brands, such as LVMH’s Zenith and Swatch Group’s Blancpain.
This year, the hall was filled to capacity with 45 brands exhibiting under the dramatic glass dome of Gotham Hall, many featuring new releases being shown to the public for the first time. Of course, some watches continue to make an impression well after release, and this event offers attendees the opportunity to go hands-on and try them on the wrist. Standout new releases include the Ressence Type 10, the Urwerk UR-300, and the Armin Strom Mirrored Force Resonance Zeitgeist 1665 3N, but these weren’t the only watches that left an impression throughout the weekend.
Of the many amazing watches encountered over the course of the event, here are the highlights still lingering in the back of my mind. Some of these go against type, but all have an undeniable charm that has me thinking outside of my own comfort zone.
Urwerk UR-300 Time Quantum
Kicking things off with a new vision from Urwerk in the UR-300 Time Quantum, we find a watch that pushes the brand’s unorthodox method of timekeeping a step further with a new system that finds inspiration within the quantum realm. Rather than a set of orbiting satellites rotating in harmony around the dial, the UR-300 uses a pair of ‘entangled entities’ that jump instantaneously between hours. Instead of the choreographed dance of the satellites, here we find a burst of energy that rearranges the state of the display in a manner that would make Schrödinger blush.
The new mechanism sits under an expansive crystal set within a new case shape that, as you might expect, doesn’t conform to conventional thinking either. Crafted from titanium, the case measures 45.2mm by 58.8mm, but with no real lug structure to speak of, those numbers don’t really tell the full story. The dial is the focal point, and it’s easy to read. The important detail about the case is that it’s ergonomic and easy to wear. This one comes in black or raw titanium, and both are limited to 25 units.
Gerald Genta Geneva
Perhaps the biggest surprise encounter at WatchTime came at the Gerald Genta booth, where multiple executions of the Geneva were being presented. This is a simple time-only watch presented in either red or white gold, and much of the beauty is found in the details and the execution. At a glance, you’ll notice a round dial set within a not-quite-round case, and the design manages this tension between the two perfectly. The railroad-style chapter ring at the perimeter of the dial concedes this discrepancy and works it into the design in a playful manner.
The dial itself gets a grained finish with a subtle but noticeable gradation from light to dark. Applied furniture is svelte and matches the thin handset. The 38mm case measures just 8.15mm in thickness, with an interesting approach to the case wall that manages to accentuate the stepped bezel. An inverse lug pushes the focus to this case structure, and wears exceptionally well. This watch was surprising because it manages to sit above any easily identifiable genre, and as such makes for a pretty tempting package all around.
Armin Strom Tribute³ Au750 & Mirrored Force Resonance Zeitgeist 1665 3N
There were two watches from Armin Strom that I found particularly compelling at the show, and the first was the Tribute³ Au750. This is a watch that builds on the existing Tribute structure and takes things a step further by rendering as much of the watch as possible in 18K rose gold. The dial finish works beautifully against the case and movement components that compose the asymmetric layout. Just eight examples of this watch will be produced, and it may be the finest example of Armin Strom’s deft finishing capabilities within a three-hander execution.
Additionally, Armin Strom introduced the Mirrored Force Resonance Zeitgeist 1665 3N at the show, and it too brings a healthy measure of gold into the formula. If the Tribute shows some level of restraint from the brand, the Mirrored Force Resonance goes full send in the other direction, displaying its novel take on resonance. Two separate regulating organs beat in unison thanks to Armin Strom’s resonance clutch, synchronizing timekeeping across an 80-hour power reserve. The gold and black colorway differentiates the visual components of the dial, while smaller details, such as the hand shape and finishing, pull you in for a closer look. Both of these watches represent Armin Strom at its best in very different ways.
Fears Arnos Opera Black
Fears debuted a new Arnos watch at WatchTime this year in the Opera Black, offering a distinct variation on the platform compared to the Pewter Blue released in 2025. The long, square case retains much of the same drama, while the negative space takes on an entirely new role in the Opera Black. The central dial is set within a black onyx stone that houses a highly stylized Roman numeral for each hour.
The black stone dial with stark white details strikes a decidedly formal tone for this Arnos, which is named for Arnos Vale, where the modern headquarters of the brand is located in England. The Opera Black ships with two different black straps, one in Epsom calf leather, and the other in grosgrain silk, which is the same material used for the cummerbund of a traditional tuxedo.
Ressence Type 10
The new Ressence Type 10 was also present for WatchTime, offering enthusiasts and collectors their first opportunity to experience the watch in person. One detail that struck me about the Type 10 was the deep blue tone carried throughout the dial, bezel, case, and strap. As with many Ressence watches, pictures don’t really tell the full story, and this is a watch that will shift with its surroundings. The new design language works well on the wrist, and details such as the individual bezel pieces made this a standout of the show.
We’ve got an interview with Benoît Mintiens about the new Type 10 coming soon, so keep an eye out for more details to come about this one.
Bonus: Piaget Andy Warhol Watches
Truth be told, I’m a sucker for Piaget’s mid-century modern designs, and their Andy Warhol collection of watches hit the sweet spot. This is a watch that you can make your own, with a selection of stone materials available to choose from, each set within a 45mm 18K rose gold case which, for this year, features an oversized stepped bezel that leans into disco volante territory. It’s wide, and it makes a statement, but at a mere 8mm in thickness, wears effortlessly.
The dials are pure magic here, and the whole design comes together beautifully whatever your choice. Proceeds from sales of the Andy Warhol watches go to the Andy Warhol Foundation for the Visual Arts. This is a collaboration that continues to impress year after year, and somehow the designs never seem to age.