First Look at the New Sartory-Billard SB04-E Ruby Platinum and Tantalum Hand-Engraved

First Look at the New Sartory-Billard SB04-E Ruby Platinum and Tantalum Hand-Engraved

The Darling of Bespoke Watchmaking Unveils Thoughtfully Refined Production Watches

Sartory-Billard has unveiled two new production watches: the SB04-E Ruby Platinum and the Tantalum Hand-Engraved. These timepieces represent the brand’s first foray into series production, a significant step for a watchmaker renowned for its bespoke and highly limited creations. Over the last nine years, Sartory-Billard has gained recognition among enthusiasts for its bold dial designs, innovative materials, and exceptional finishing techniques. With the SB04-E series, the focus remains firmly on the dials while introducing an accessible production model.


The SB04-E series marks a departure from Sartory-Billard’s traditional bespoke approach, transitioning to production watches without compromising the artistry that defines the brand. While the Ruby Platinum model is a limited edition of just 150 pieces, the Tantalum Hand-Engraved becomes a permanent addition to the brand’s catalog. Both watches highlight Sartory-Billard’s continued commitment to craftsmanship and innovation.

Dial Design: The Heart of the Collection

The SB04-E series is defined by its exceptional dials:

  • Ruby Platinum (Cœur de Rubis): Each dial is crafted from a single piece of ruby, making every watch unique. The natural depth and brilliance of the ruby are showcased through meticulous cutting and shaping, resulting in a dial that is as striking as it is rare.
  • Tantalum Hand-Engraved: This dial features intricate hand-engraving by founder Armand Billard. The feather-like texture, achieved through painstaking craftsmanship, highlights the challenges of working with tantalum, a notoriously tough and “gummy” metal. The result is a consistent and visually captivating hammered effect.

Both dials are complemented by a fumé sunray-textured outer ring—platinum-plated for the Ruby Platinum and solid tantalum for the Tantalum Hand-Engraved. Diamond-cut indexes complete the design, enhancing the high level of finishing.

Case Design and Proportions for Everyday Wear

The SB04-E series is designed with practicality in mind. The stainless steel cases measure 39.5mm in diameter, 10.3mm in height, and 46mm lug-to-lug. A water resistance rating of 100 meters ensures versatility for daily use.

The case design builds on Sartory-Billard’s earlier models, incorporating improved ergonomics and new details such as scalloping on the bezel and refined transitions between the lugs and case body. Lume is thoughtfully applied across both the case and dial, adding functionality and aesthetic appeal.

Reliable Performance

Both models are powered by the La Joux-Perret G101 automatic movement. Key features include:

  • Tungsten Rotor: Enhances durability and efficiency
  • 68-Hour Power Reserve: Ensures reliable timekeeping over extended periods
  • 4Hz Frequency: Provides precision and stability

Each watch comes with a curved Delugs CTS rubber strap and includes a voucher for an additional strap, allowing for further customization.

The SB04-E series represents an important milestone for Sartory-Billard. After years of creating bespoke timepieces with hundreds of unique dial designs, these are the watches the brand has decided to produce in larger qauntities. Given all the brand has created for collectors, that should tell us something. Plus, these watches are just flat-out beautiful.

The SB04-E Ruby Platinum and the Tantalum Hand-Engraved available to order now at collectivehorology.com. As always, thanks for reading and supporting independent watchmaking.

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