Watch Collectors Become More Discerning – Openwork Episode 38

Inside the Spring 2025 Collective Voice Survey

On the latest episode of Openwork, we delve into the results of the Spring 2025 Collective Voice Survey – our twice-yearly report on how collectors feel about all things watches.

Our Spring 2025 survey offers a fresh look at what’s on the minds of watch enthusiasts—what excites them, what frustrates them, and how those feelings translate (or don’t) into actual buying behavior. Just like our inaugural survey in Summer 2024, this round was packed with thoughtful, candid, and occasionally contradictory responses.

This time, we also dug deeper into the 129 responses to better understand where the watch enthusiasts stand—and how that’s changing.

1. The State of the Watch Collector, Spring 2025

Enthusiasm Is Still High—But Tempered by Pricing and Hype

Most respondents remain highly engaged. The average enthusiasm score today is 8.1 out of 10, and nearly half of all respondents used the upper end of the scale (8–10). That said, confidence in the future of the industry is softer: future-looking enthusiasm averages just 7.3.

“Still love watches. Less impressed with what many brands are doing.”

That quote captures the underlying tension: people are still emotionally invested in watches, but they’re questioning where things are headed.

In particular, increasing prices as well as "hype" and scarcity appeared consistently, associated with waning enthusiasm.

“Watches seem to get more expensive but not necessarily better.”
“Hype culture has been toxic and influencers need to be removed from the equation.”

While these phenomena represent real challenges, buying activity remains strong and collectors are clear about what they'd like to see.

Buying Activity Is Strong—Just More Selective

• 83 respondents (64%) said they’ve already purchased a watch in 2025.

• Looking ahead, over 75% expect to make a purchase in the next three to six months, either with a plan or active consideration.

“Design, limited editions/releases from brands I love.”
“Opportunity to get a watch I’ve wanted.”
“Love trying new watches.”

So while the energy is there, it’s being channeled more deliberately. Collectors are still buying—but they’re being more thoughtful about what they buy and why.

What Collectors Want (That They’re Not Getting)

In terms of what increasingly selective collectors want to see from brands, three themes dominate the qualitative responses:

• “Value” was mentioned 91 times.

• “Design” came up 142 times.

• “Innovation” was referenced in 44 responses.

One collector summed up these evolving expectations perfectly:

“Unique design, premium quality, and general value.”

The message is clear: collectors are asking brands to rethink not just pricing, but what they’re offering in return.

2. What’s Changed Since Summer 2024

Several clear shifts have emerged since our last survey:

Value Has Become Non-Negotiable

Value isn’t just a preference anymore—it’s a demand. And while the word "value" often conjures affordability, that’s not what collectors mean. They’re talking about justified prices, resale viability, and a stronger price-to-story ratio.

“Better value. Watches seem to get more expensive but not necessarily better.”
“More design innovation at under $10K.”

Even among those spending significantly, this sentiment was loud and clear.

Hype Fatigue Is Real—and Growing

In Summer 2024, complaints about hype were present but scattered. In Spring 2025, they were more consistent—and sharper. From influencer fatigue to limited-release theatrics, many collectors are simply tired of being marketed to.

“Less hype and FOMO and limited releases. No product should be this hard to buy.”
“The hype culture has been toxic.”

(That said, as we’ll see next, the relationship between sentiment and behavior isn’t always so straightforward.)

Likewise, dozens of responses called out brands that continue to generate buzz, while falling short on service, transparency, or respect for the customer. Many respondents expressed frustration with dismissive boutique experiences and even brand CEOs.

“I’m over the stupid [Rolex] AD game. It’s more status ownership than true horology now.”
“[Patek Philippe’s] CEO has been super rude to owners.”

In many cases, these were not single-incident stories—they reflected a broader fatigue with brands that seem more focused on gatekeeping than engagement. One respondent summed it up with this:

“AP & Patek might as well be run by Kathleen Kennedy killing the Star Wars franchise… the retail experience is better at a Rolex boutique than either AP or Patek stores.”

The message is loud and clear: hype without humility—or service—pushes collectors away.

3. The Contradictions: What We Say vs. What We Do

There’s no denying the passion in these responses—but they also reveal some subtle contradictions:

“Value Matters”—But Most Are Buying at Mid to High Tiers

Despite the strong desire for value:

• 75 respondents said they expect to buy in the $5,000–9,999 range.

• 69 said they’re targeting $1,000–4,999.

• 48 expect to buy at $10,000–24,999.

“Good value is everything.”
“I have a planned purchase… in the $10,000–24,999 range.”

This isn’t a contradiction—it’s a clarification: value isn’t about price. It’s about perceived fairness. And collectors are still willing to pay—if the watch feels worth it.

They Dislike Scarcity and Hype—But Still Buy Into It

Many respondents called out the toxicity of hype, yet the same individuals also mentioned limited editions and exclusivity as key motivators.

“Limited editions from brands I love.”
“New design, jaw-dropping look.”
“Access to special releases.”

So yes, there’s fatigue. But there’s also fascination. The key isn’t eliminating scarcity—it’s using it responsibly.

They Want Bold Design—But Don’t Always Act on It

Of the 58 respondents who mentioned “design” specifically in their written responses, more than one-third also reported that they hadn’t purchased a watch in 2025. Many voiced frustration that truly original or daring design remains hard to find—or not compelling enough to justify a buy.

“Unique features and interesting/daring design.”
“More design innovation at under $10K.”
“New design, jaw-dropping look.”

This raises a compelling contradiction: collectors say they want creativity—but when bold options appear, hesitation often sets in. That might suggest the market still isn’t delivering the kind of design that resonates deeply—or that when it comes time to swipe a card, familiarity still holds sway.

Conclusion: A Watch Community That Knows What It Wants

This latest survey paints a vivid portrait of today’s collector: passionate, engaged, and increasingly thoughtful. These are not passive consumers—they’re active participants in the culture of watch collecting.

Collectors are raising the bar. They want design that surprises, value that feels earned, and brands that speak to them, not at them. And they’re willing to spend for substance.

The message to the industry isn’t that collectors are pulling away. It’s that they’re paying attention. Now it’s the industry’s turn to do the same.

A huge thanks to everyone who responded to Collective Voice. We are grateful for your time and thoughtfulness. It goes a long way toward voicing your support and advocating for the change you want to see in the watch industry.