Watch Production in China – Openwork Episode 22

Wes Kwok, co-founder of Nodus Watches, shares his insights on the realities of watch production in China, offering a fresh perspective that challenges some common misconceptions about Chinese manufacturing. As a co-founder of a watch brand that proudly produces its timepieces in China, Wes sheds light on an often misunderstood industry, revealing aspects of Chinese watchmaking that are frequently overlooked.

Dispelling Misconceptions: Quality in Chinese Watchmaking

Wes begins by addressing a prevalent misconception—that China's watch manufacturing ecosystem lacks quality. He explains that this belief is far from accurate. China is the world’s largest source of watch parts, with many luxury watch brands sourcing components from Chinese factories, though this is rarely disclosed. According to Wes, many high-end watches today are built using parts manufactured in China, highlighting the country’s exceptional expertise, particularly in the production of steel watch components.

Expertise in Steel Watch Component Manufacturing

Wes dives into China's specific strength in producing steel watch components. Unlike some materials that can be more automated, working with steel requires a human touch, especially when it comes to finishing. Steel components aren’t simply extruded from CNC machines and put into watches—they undergo surface finishing, a delicate process that calls for skilled hands. In China, this work is done at a much lower cost compared to places like Switzerland, where labor is significantly more expensive. This makes China an ideal location for brands seeking to maintain high quality while controlling production costs.

He explains that while Switzerland is renowned for its craftsmanship and watchmaking traditions, China offers similar quality in steel components for a fraction of the cost. Chinese workers, despite being paid less, possess the skills needed for the intricate finishing work required in watchmaking. Wes emphasizes that quality craftsmanship exists in China, even if the watches themselves aren’t labeled as “Swiss Made.”

Economic Considerations: Tariffs and Production Costs

Wes explores the economic advantages of producing watches in China. Although tariffs on imported goods from China have increased production costs for many brands, the financial benefits of producing there still outweigh the challenges. China’s lower labor costs and extensive manufacturing infrastructure make it an attractive location for watch production.

He also underscores an important point: the focus should be on how watches are made, not where they are made. Many consumers incorrectly assume that watches made in China are of lower quality compared to those produced in Switzerland, failing to account for the craftsmanship and expertise involved. In reality, Chinese factories have built a strong workforce capable of performing complex, high-precision work.

Changing the Narrative

This episode presents a refreshing perspective on Chinese watch production, challenging long-standing biases and highlighting the skilled labor and craftsmanship behind many watches on the market. For anyone interested in the complexities and opportunities within the world of watchmaking, Wes’s discussion provides a compelling and informative view of the evolving role that China plays in this industry.

Hosted by Asher Rapkin and Gabe Reilly, co-founders of Collective Horology, Openwork goes inside the watch industry. You can find us online at collectivehorology.com. To get in touch with suggestions, feedback or questions, email podcast@collectivehorology.com.